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Monday 21 July, 2014 | RSS Feed

Effortless adventure is the whole point of Capri

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That mix of serenity and effortless adventure is the whole point of Capri. Each morning, my companions and I took our cappuccinos and croissants outdoors. We sat by the pool in the private courtyard and watched sunbathers lie on the public beach below, their towels spread out on the sand. Each afternoon at four o'clock, we gathered again on the wraparound deck to retell the day's stories and drink fresh, crisp wine. In the hours between, there was an entire island to explore by foot, boat and convertible taxi.

Though the concierge insisted it could not be done in a day, I ran from one end of Capri to the other—up a rambling wooded path to a 1st-century Roman villa, through the maze of streets in town and up, up, up all 800 Scala Fenicia ("Phoenician steps" in English), a stone staircase that once served as the only link between Capri and its rustic neighbor, Anacapri. My companions and I rode a rickety chairlift to the top of Anacapri's Mount Solaro and looked out to sea as far as we could—to Tunisia, perhaps, or somewhere even farther off. As we hiked back down the hillside, we followed no road and let ourselves get lost on footpaths barely visible through tangles of grass. We paused atop a deserted bluff and listened, but there were no voices, no traffic for miles, just us and the bees and the golden light of an autumn afternoon.

One can't do that during the high season. There aren't many places to disappear to for an hour, where one can wander back to a familiar road—familiar after just one day—and find one's way back to town. Eventually, we, too, found our way, which we always did, just in time for cocktail hour. And thus our days in Capri passed.

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